Wednesday, November 11, 2015

Ear Cleaning...Are You Doing It Right?



Guess What? I have been doing it wrong and you probably are too! When I see that Brown, Yeasty Gunk in Daisy's ear, I rush to get out my cleaning supplies, roll up my sleeves and "Go to Town" scraping it all out of there. "I" certainly have that good feeling of accomplishment when I finish and Daisy's ear is squeaky clean. Daisy doesn't seem to enjoy it though! And come to find out a dog's ear skin is really sensitive. No wonder dogs hate this process....because it Hurts!!

Here is why you shouldn't be digging down the ear canal; It is shaped like an "L" and look how long it is!!
Besides if you are digging you might actually be pushing the Gunk down even farther. Making the cleaning process counterproductive.

Think about this...the Earwax System exists to push Gunk out. The Gunk is really the Hero by removing the infection from the ear. So wouldn't it be best to let it do it's job?

How about this for your new cleaning regime? If you already have ear cleaning solution, then use it. If you don't, then you can use 1:1 Hydrogen Peroxide to Water or Apple Cider Vinegar to Water.

Then follow these instructions. I know this may go against your cleaning beliefs but nowadays we are over cleaning everything. Remember Good Bacteria keeps the World Healthy.

By the way, these instructions are from a Veterinarian; Dr. Barbara Royal. ( I added the Red Circle for emphasis!)


You can clean your dog's ear on a regular basis if they have a tendency to be "Gunky". But if there is an infection by all means get proper medical attention.

Thanks for being here!
My best,
Dru

Out of the DogHouse LLC website www.ohiodogtrainer.net
Any Questions? Call me, Dru Therrian 440.286.9070

Wednesday, November 4, 2015

Make Fetch Fun



Has the Game of Fetch stopped being Fun? I hear this all the time. "My dog will pick up the ball but she won't drop it!" Yup! The Game is ON! Sometimes you have a Gingerbread Dog....Catch me if you Can Or Dogzilla, who resource guards the toy like it's a Pile of Money!!

I know how frustrating that can be and it certainly isn't any fun especially when you know how much you both really could enjoy the Game of Fetch if your dog played nicely.

Let me preface this by saying, what I am gonna show you works for a dog who already picks up the ball with her mouth but won't let go.

Avoid this #1 Mistake that most people make. Most people believe (because some dogs do) their dog is going to just Happily give back the toy. Nope! That dog Loves it; Wants it; Can't give it up! 

Here is how to make Fetch Fun.  Have something More Valuable to trade your dog for the toy!! If your dog LOVES>LOVES>LOVES toys (get it? Must really Love toys) then use a second toy to get the first one back. If not then use Food. Food works best because the dog will eat it and it is gone. You won't have to worry about the dog running off or trying to get it back.

Here is a short video showing how to teach your dog to release the toy.


Keep in mind that your dog can not hold the toy and eat at the same time. Ultimately she must spit OUT the toy to eat the food. Then you can pick up the toy and play again.

Thanks for being here!
My best,
Dru

Out of the DogHouse LLC website www.ohiodogtrainer.net
Any Questions? Call me, Dru Therrian 440.286.9070


Wednesday, October 21, 2015

Gimme Five





Who hasn't given or received a High Five? From some miniscule awesomeness to a Major, Colossal Victory, a High Five pretty much is a Worldwide Symbol of Celebration.

Doing a High Five with your dog is a great trick, too, but what if  it was a Way to Change your relationship as well? 

Here is my "ODH High Five: 5 Steps to make Living with your Dog a Celebration!"



Thanks for being here!
My best,
Dru

Out of the DogHouse LLC website www.ohiodogtrainer.net
Any Questions? Call me, Dru Therrian 440.286.9070


Wednesday, October 14, 2015

A Dog's Eye View



Want a simple way to help your dog keep a healthy attitude towards you?

Always stay in a position above your dog. Literally...like standing tall or being in a higher position when sitting than your dog.

This may not be true in every case but more often than not, a dog will perceive people who are physically above him as potentially above him in social status. On the flip side, he will regard anyone beneath him as socially beneath as well.

Here are a couple of "people" examples of what I mean. Think of the movie scene in the "King and I" where Anna and the King perform dueling positions (the King's head must always remain above the Subject's) or the children's game of "King of the Hill". There is always power associated with the one who is in the highest position.

Your dog may not pose any problems in the regard to the "Power Position" but there are many that do and many that will defend or guard that power position of space if threatened.

Take a moment to think about your dog's favorite place to lay down.
  • on the floor
  • on the couch, the chair or your bed
  • on the back of the couch
  • on the staircase landing
  • at the top of the staircase 
  • On TOP of YOU!
Now if your dog has ever bitten you for any reason, you should remove all opportunities to rest in a higher location; Especially, if their favorite spot is on your lap!

Being above is like a Look Out . We may think it is charming or cute when our dog is perched above us but that could be the cause of  discourse in your home. Being above in a higher position gives the dog an advantage to be in charge.

So give your dog the proper perspective, one that looks up to you.

Thanks for being here!
My best,
Dru

Out of the Doghouse LLC website www.ohiodogtrainer.net
Any Questions? Call me, Dru Therrian 440.286.9070

Wednesday, October 7, 2015

ODH: Not Your Typical Classroom



You really don't need four walls and a building to train a dog. Here at Out of the DogHouse we literally get out of the house to learn.

I really enjoy taking dogs to different places to practice and learn. Socialization and Confidence Building are just part of the benefits for dogs and best of all they don't even realize they are "TRAINING"!

I find dogs learn faster and more easily with less stress when we go out and about. Keep in mind, some stress is beneficial while learning new things, but if I can make the dog's experience while learning more enjoyable then the dog will learn more happily.

So pretty much every day we we go out and Play. Ooops I mean Train!!

Thanks for being here!
My best,
Dru




Out of the DogHouse LLC website www.ohioodgtrainer.net
Any Questions? Call me, Dru Therrian 440.286.9070

Wednesday, September 30, 2015

Busy Lives

With lives so busy and plates heaping these days....when are you going to fit in training your dog?

Well, lucky for you, every moment of a dog's life is a training! This means whether you are present or not, your dog is always learning something.

Just like us, dogs thrive on predictable and consistent schedules  So let's make the most our valuable time. Best of all, this doesn't mean you have to be interactively involved with your dog every minute of the day because you have a life too! We just want you to choose when to include your dog and then allow your dog to learn how to be comfortable when left alone.  Now that's training.

So here is the ODH Time Chart we created to help you manage your time with and for your dog.
click to view larger























Use this list to plan out your dog's day.

  • Potty
  • Mealtime
  • Walking
  • Place or Tether 
  • Crate Time
  • Play
  • Rest
  • Socialization
Here is an Example chart. Matt (my husband) filled it out because he leaves the house to go to work.
click to view larger
























No worries now that you have a plan and a schedule to follow. Don't want to stick to it? Well that's ok, your dog is still learning something!

Thanks for being here!
My Best,
Dru

PS Want a copy of ODH Time Chart? Send me an email and just ask! dru@geaugadogtrainer.com


Out of the DogHouse LLC website www.ohiodogtrainer.net
Any Questions? Call me, Dru Therrian 440.286.9070 

Wednesday, September 23, 2015

Ignoring Me


I find this ironic that I really do want my dog to ignore me. This is funny because I spend so much time teaching dogs how to focus on their owners when in reality I want dogs to ignore them and the environment.

Ideally, I want to pass by, do chores and even go to the bathroom without my dog noticing or caring about what I am doing.

What "Ignoring Me" really means is that my dog is Content! She isn't needy, nosy or bothersome. And I LOVE that!

This also means I have Peace and Quiet and Peace of Mind. That my dog is happy, satisfied but ready to do things when I am ready to do them. I like it that my dog is on my Time Schedule.

You can do this too! It just means you need to teach your pup one thing before all this Bliss can Happen. How to Stay. Whether it is in a Place or Down Command, your dog needs to learn How to be Still. Then the quiet and calm will come. Honest!

Thanks for being here!
My best,
Dru


Out of the DogHouse LLC websitewww.ohiodogtrainer.net
Any Questions? Call me, Dru Therrian 440.286.9070

Wednesday, September 16, 2015

How to Go Raw



For this week's post, I have asked my good friend, Michelle Hegarty, to be my guest writer. She lays out a super, simple, plan and explanation that will help you to switch from feeding your dog Dry dog food to Raw. Or as I like to describe it as Fresh Food. Michelle also adds good reasons why Fresh is Best.

Your dog may love Fresh Food right away but some dogs may not want to give up their "Corn Chips and Salsa" ( haha corn -based food). Don't give up! Fresh Food is Healthier than Dry, Processed Dog Food.

Keep in mind too, it may take a few weeks for your dog to adjust to the new diet and if your dog has skin issues it may take months to resolve because the body needs to get rid of all the toxins that it has been harboring and heal itself.

I know you will enjoy Michelle's post like I did. She is down to earth and a dog owner just like you!
And don't forget to join Fresh Food Diet on Facebook for any extra help! https://www.facebook.com/groups/371951032993860/

Thanks for being here!
My best,
Dru

Out of the DogHouse LLC website www.ohiodogtrainer.net
Any Questions? call me, Dru Therrian 440.286.9070



Transitioning to a Raw Diet ~ Michelle Hegarty

So you are thinking about transitioning to a raw diet?  Awesome! It’s not as scary as it seems. It will be a lot easier if you have a plan ahead of time. Here is some ways to prepare.

1.      Have a place in the house for feeding. I tether my dogs so that they have to stay in a place to eat. I don’t want chicken legs and pork necks running down the hallway to my bedroom (ugh) so plan ahead. I also always feed on an old towel, sheet or something easily washable. When the meal is over I pick up the towels and throw in the wash.

2.      It is not advisable to mix kibble or any processed food with raw. The reason is simple—all those grains and carbohydrates slow down the digestive/enzyme process. You don’t want to trap raw food in the gut. Your raw fed dog will process his food much faster with much less waste. You will find that her poop will have much less volume and disintegrate within a few days! Yay no more poop pickup! Another reason the poop will be much smaller is that dogs cannot process all those grains/fruits/vegs/ that are in standard dog foods. They literally pass right through creating much more waste and push the body to try and process carbohydrates which are sugar.

3.      Get a scale. Mine on Amazon was $10 and you can adjust the scale to ex out the weight of the bowl. Ideally you want to feed 2-3% of your dog’s body weight. My dog Henry is 23 pounds…ideally he should 21 pounds…so I want to gradually feed him what he would need at 21 pounds. I start with 22 lbs. x 2%= .44 lbs. per day. Split in half this is .22 lbs. per day. (You can see why you need the scale!) Puppies will need much more than 2-3%.

4.      I would recommend you buy slippery elm. I bought a 1 lb. bag on Amazon for $26 that was organic. This is a wonderful natural cure for any stomach upset or diarrhea. Funny that it works for both constipation and diarrhea. Have on hand in case you have any issues. My dogs transitioned without any real issues. Of my three dogs, Henry has the more sensitive stomach and if he seems a little off (eating grass, a little runny poo) I feed a little in his food (23 lb. dog I give ½ tsp).

5.      So you are ready! How to start. Bone is an important component in a dog’s diet. Like everything in life too much or too little isn’t good. I typically feed a ground diet with bone in the food ground up but I also feed several times a week either a pork neck, chicken leg/thigh/back/breast with the bone in.  When you are starting out I recommend alternating—one meal all meat and one meal that is meat with the bone in.

6.      One note about fruits and vegetables. Personally I don’t feed them. I know many people do. I think that they complicate the digestive process and give very little benefit to the dog. I would recommend that during your transition you leave them out—let the dog process things slowly. Remember most fruits and vegetable break down ultimately into sugar which is not healthy for your dog and slows down the digestive process. If you want to add them back in later that’s okay.


7.      I don’t recommend that you cut up the bone or meat. Part of the joy of raw feeding is that it engages the dog to think, tear, rip and chew on his food. It will slow him down and make him work at it. It’s a mental challenge. It will also keep their teeth cleaner and reduce the chances of choking.  Dogs instinctively know what they can swallow…and if it doesn’t fit they will throw it up and chew on it some more.

8.      Let’s talk about grinds. I use them for 75% of what I feed my dogs. A grind is an already mixed container that is 100% of the animal—meat, organs, bones. The entire animal except for the hair or feathers. At first this seemed gross to me but if your dog was out catching rabbits he would probably eat the whole thing…part of being a carnivore. A grind will contain approximate 80% Meat, 10% organs and 10% bone—which is the ratio you are shooting for long term. When I say long term—I try to feed this over a week’s time—some days they may get more meat, others more organs and bone.

This is a guide—some people make changes slower. Watch your dogs for runny poo or constipation..

Day 1 - 4
AM Weigh out a chicken breast. Feed whole and chilled or at room temperature  PM Weigh out chicken leg/thigh/back or breast with bone in.
Day 5 – 9
            Continue to make one meal chicken with bone in. Add ground beef in with chicken meat.
Day 10 – 12
            If you are going to start feeding “grinds” make a chicken grind one meal and ground beef the second (the grind will have some organ meat in it)

Day 13-16
            Make a pork neck or chop one meal and a chicken grind the second

At this point you can start changing around the diet slowly. If your dog’s poo is runny you aren’t feeding enough bone…if he seems constipated you are feeding too much. If runny poo persists try the slippery elm and slow down the progress of what you are feeding.

 Ultimately you will want to feed a variety of animals so make sure you are getting all the necessary vitamins, minerals, enzymes your dog needs. My primary sources of animals are beef and chicken. Secondary sources are turkey and pork. I supplement animals such as rabbit, duck, and emu (very healthy!). For treats I feed beef trachea, chicken or turkey necks.  Each week I rotate proteins: one week beef, turkey, rabbit…another week chicken, pork and duck. Things like duck, rabbit and emu are more expensive so I use them in smaller quantities—not the main meal.

Other notes:
1.      I don’t feed things frozen. I know some people do but this will reduce your dog’s body temperature and might make them shiver. If you have your set up planned I would recommend feeding right out of the fridge thawed or at room temperature.

2.      Find a local butcher who will cut things up for you! I use Newbury Meats on Route 87—they are used to me now (the wacky raw feeding lady) and will cut up a pork neck or chicken back or whatever else I need into sizes that are appropriate for my dogs.

3.      Where to buy grinds? Personally I use a company called Mypetcarnivore.com.  I researched many companies online…there are now quite a few. I was looking for humanely raised animals (free range/pasture grazed) and for a company that does not use denatured meat (I will explain in a minute). Secondarily I was looking for easy to use containers that were affordable. MPC is all those things for what I am looking for. Many of the co-ops out there require you to buy huge quantities at a time. While I did buy a freezer for the garage so I could buy in bulk—I don’t want to buy a whole cow at a time!

4.      If you are not going to feed grinds then you will really need to find a butcher—they can only source certain things. I used to have Newbury Meats grind up both (pig and beef) heart, tongue, liver and pancreas.

5.      What is denatured meat? This is a really ugly secret that the pet food companies have kept hidden for a long time.  Animals that arrive at the processing center that are either diseased, dying, down or dead. They are deemed non-human grade and coated with a chemical/die or other material so that they don’t end up in the human food production. They are then sold to pet food companies who have also been known to use road kill, zoo animals etc. for their meat.  Raw food suppliers are also using denatured meat as a means to keep cost down—and they are cheaper. Personally for me—I am going to great lengths for my dogs to live a long and happy life. I am not going to cut a dangerous corner at this point.

6.      A word about treats. It goes without saying that any treats you give your dogs—particularly during the early transition- should be meat only. I use a dehydrator to make chicken, turkey and beef treats. They last for weeks and are much better than whatever you might buy in the pet food store (and safer too since you made them and know what is in them!).


This was my raw feeding journey. I think everyone should become as informed as much as possible. One of the many resources that I used was a Facebook group called Raw Feeding University (RFU). They have great files on all kinds of raw feeding topics. 

Please feel free to reach out to me if you have any problems, questions or concerns. I am not an expert in feeding a raw diet…I just wanted to share my journey in case it helps someone else.

Michelle Hegarty

Hegarty Pack ~ Henry, Emma and Charlotte





Wednesday, September 9, 2015

Bad Toy!!




If there is a new puppy in the house more than likely there are new Stuffed Toys. Like a huge basketful of them, Right! Buying toys for our puppies is hard to resist.

Now the puppy is teething and the toy may help but by giving the teething puppy "Stuffies" to chew on, the pattern to chew and destroy fabric items has been set. Not all puppies will go on to chew the couch or even destroy their own bedding but quite a few do.

Let me mention, in my opinion, why destroying the couch isn't the dog's fault.

Chewing is an "Innate" behavior meaning it is natural or inborn in a dog. Other innate behaviors are eating, barking, jumping, biting, digging and playing. In and of themselves these are not bad behaviors until they occur in inappropriate ways. When they occur inappropriately that means the puppy has "Learned" to behave that way and will repeat the behavior out of desire, frustration or habit.

Innate is permanent. Learned can be changed.

There are four ways to change a Learned behavior: Obedience Training, fulfill your dog's needs, select the correct training tools, control the environment.

So the options are available but the easiest one is Prevention; Do not let it happen in the first place.

So I go back to why this isn't the dog's fault.....Who bought the toy and who let the puppy rip it up?



Thanks for being here!
My best,
Dru


Out of the DogHouse LLC website www.ohiodogtrainer.net
Any Questions? Call me, Dru Therrian 440.286.9070


Wednesday, September 2, 2015

Why You Shouldn't Ask Your Dog What?


Do you get this often? Your dog is looking at you wanting something. You say "What?" and your dog proceeds to only get more excited.

Asking your dog questions may be funny because we like it when our dog shows us that cute, quizzical, "Head Tilt" expression but more than likely the answer you're gonna get will result in a jacked up, crazy and out of control dog.

Besides, asking your dog "What" makes your dog seek out your attention with higher, uncontrollable  energy. Keep in mind, it's fun for them too! So aren't we sabotaging our relationship with our dogs by asking them questions?  "It's cute!" but it causes trouble. Remember when it happens, it's our own darn fault for creating some of the bad behavior in our dogs.

The bottom line to fix this....don't Ask.

Thanks for being here!
My best,
Dru


Out of the DogHouse LLC website www.ohiodogtrainer.net
Any Questions? call me, Dru Therrian 440.286.9070



Wednesday, August 26, 2015

The Power of Leadership Walking


Some days you and your dog just have opposite agendas! Your dog doesn't want to do what you want her to do, right?! You both are going different directions!

One way to change that is by walking your dog. Wait a minute you say! But I walk my dog ALL the time or I CAN"T walk my dog because she yanks my arm out of it's socket pulling like crazy or lays down like a pancake and flat out refuses. She never walks "Next" to me!

I know, I know! It's because your dog has not begun to Follow you or see you as the Team Captain. Really walking can change that...that is, the right kind of Walking! Leadership (Follow Me) Walking for starters.

This is how you build Leadership because when you allow your dog to walk ahead, pull on the leash, sniff and leave Pee-mail you are not walking your dog; Your dog is walking you! I always want to feel like I am "Holding Hands" with my dog. (Imagine Gentle Swaying) You wouldn't want to be dragged around by your Significant Other? So don't let your dog drag you.

Here's how to get started.

First you need to change your expectations; Walking nicely around the block or for a mile straight is not the first step. Use a long line (10' to 15') to give your dog safe space to be in and just walk away from your dog. Yup! Say Let's Go and take off. By no other choice, your dog has to Follow because of being on leash. If your dog zooms ahead just change directions; Go the opposite way. This will keep you ahead and in charge.

You will see a change in your dog after a week or two of  Follow Me Walking and a change in Leadership. You won't be leaving your yard right away but you will feel a lighter dog on leash and you will see your dog choosing to join up and walk next to you without being told!


Are you still unconvinced? Well listen to these huge benefits! Walking dogs daily with Leadership reduces house training accidents. Multiple walks gives your pup more opportunities to get it "Right" outside.

Separation Anxiety is minimized because walking is exercise which means you will have a tired dog with less energy to whine or fuss. Leadership will help your dog be calmer.

And lastly you will have a dog who is pleasant to be with so you will spend more time together.

Thanks for being here!
My best,
Dru


Out of the DogHouse website www.ohiodogtrainer.net
Any Questions? Call me, Dru Therrian 440.286.9070

Wednesday, August 19, 2015

Team Captain


Carrying on from last week.....what the heck is a Team Captain anyway? The Person in charge! Because I tell you, truly, some person, even if you may be the only person around, has to be in charge.

What does it take to be a Team Captain?

1.Team Captains are calm, confident and consistent: Asserting authority with conviction.


2. Team Captains are Pro-Active and in charge of every situation: Setting boundaries, teaching manners and earning respect.


3. Team Captains will not allow canine teeth on human skin: Prevention and prohibiting mouthing and play biting.


4. Team Captains control space: A dog must yield space to people by moving out of the way.


5. Team Captains are valued by the dog when needs are fulfilled: Body, Mind and Heart-Exercise, Discipline and Affection.


6. Team Captains decides when the dog may have freedom: Dog are required to be calm and quiet when waiting and cooperative when allowed to be active.  


7. Team Captains provide a safe place to rest: Dogs are given an area to lay but preferably a crate.


8. Team Captains maintain good order and discipline in a multi-dog home: No favorites-a separate relationship with each dog.


9. Team Captains control all resources "The Stuff of Life": Food, water, toys, furniture, time, smells on the walk and affection.


I know you've got what it takes! Dogs will do their best as a Team Player when you are their Team Captain.



Thanks for being here!
My best,
Dru

Out of the DogHouse LLc website www.ohiodogtrainer.net
Any Questions? Call me, Dru therrian 440.286.9070











Wednesday, August 12, 2015

Who's in charge?


In today's dog culture, there are a few titles going around that describe who's in charge. We all have heard of Alpha, Top Dog and Pack Leader but a title that is new and different in this regard but resonates with me, is Team Captain. And I am not speaking about the dog but the person who the dog thinks is in charge.

When I was a kid, we played baseball at the corner house on our street. We had only a slight risk of hitting the house because of lots of yard for playing; plus we had the safety of the road if the ball went foul or someone hit a homerun. Yes, it was definitely like the movie "Sandlot" with one kid particularly standing out. Nope it wasn't me! But this kid was always the Team Captain. He qualified because he was the best player. And as kids, we always wanted to be on his team because his team always won.

Now that I am an adult, I think Team Captain qualities should be more than just being good at something. There should be an "Air of Calm Self-Confidence". Someone who is unflappable in distress; level headed; someone who is neither nervous or afraid (or doesn't show it); nor are they boisterous and loud. A Team Captain is in Command of Himself and in Control of the Dog.

Your dog will look up to a person like that and if your dog doesn't find his Team Captain then the dog will take over the role and trust me the dog won't do a good job. Your dog should never be in charge.

If you don't think you have Team Captain qualities just "Fake it till you Make it"! Your dog is counting on you! Because having, You, as Team Captain means your dog will always be on the winning team.

Thanks for being here.
My best,
Dru

Out of the DogHouse LLC website www.ohiodogtrainer.net
Any Questions? Call me, Dru Therrian 440.286.9070

Wednesday, August 5, 2015

Doggie Playgrounds



You know Sesame Street, Captain Kangaroo and  Mr. Rogers got it right when it came to teaching children. (Notice I can only reference the shows my kids watched when they were little...no clue what kids these days watch!!! I will have to ask my granddaughters!) Anyhow....playing games and having fun is a great way to learn and it works for dogs too!

I love setting up the Fun-Gility Equipment as a Doggie Playground and the dogs love going on it. Sure there are a few pups who are nervous at first because their feet have never left the ground except to jump on someone! But once they overcome their fear they have a Blast!

Huge benefits result from conquering the course: Gigantic boost in Confidence; Improved Large Motor Skills; Dogs Filled Sheer Joy and Happiness! I find that the pups will even play on the equipment all by themselves without being asked!

And you know what else? The dogs don't even realize they are learning! Sneaking in Sits, Downs and Places are easy when it is combined with Fun!

So grab what you can find around the house and set up a Doggie Playground because Dogs just Wanna have Fun!




Thanks for being here!
My best,
Dru

Out of the DogHouse LLC website www.ohiodogtrainer.net
Any Questions? Call me, Dru Therrian 440.286.9070

Wednesday, July 29, 2015

Leave It!




Challenging Distractions can be a daily event! What to do about it, right?! Do you find yourself repeatedly saying LEAVE IT! with no results? That could be from your dog, truly, not understanding the command.

Keep this thought in mind when with your dog.

"What your dog is looking at is What they are thinking about"

I made this video to demonstrate how you can start to teach your dog the Command "Leave It". Once your dog can ignore this challenge then then you can Up the Ante. You will be most successful if you start simple and work up to that kitty, rabbit, squirrel etc. Challenges should become more difficult as your dog learns Leave It = Ignore on command.

1. Set up the Challenge.
2. Keep your dog on leash.
3. As you approach the Challenging Distraction, Say Dog's Name; Leave It; Reward and walk by.

~Saying your dog's name will tell them to give you their attention.
~Saying Leave It tells them what to do = Ignore.

Remember, make it a Win/Win. Help your dog succeed by teaching them their name = attention and that looking at you is the Greatest Reward!





Thanks for being here!
My best,
Dru

Out of the DogHouse LLC website www.ohiodogtrainer.net
Any Questions? call me, Dru Therrian 440.286.9070


Wednesday, July 22, 2015

The Cookie Jar Puppy Party



Oh we are having fun here at Out of the DogHouse! We just had our first "Cookie Jar" Puppy Party; This is something brand new that is now being offered after puppies finish ODH Puppy Preschool and become "One Smart Cookie". Puppies get added to the Cookie Jar. This means they can attend an age appropriate puppy social group until they are ready to start Boot Camp.

First, you ask, what is "One Smart Cookie ODH Puppy Preschool"? This program is specifically designed for puppies that are 8 to 16 weeks old. And the closer to 8 weeks the better. Families and their puppy come to learn how to learn! House Training, Crate Training, Nutrition, Grooming and a beginning Foundation of Obedience will be taught over the course of four weeks.

Why earlier is Best?! Because that little puppy brain is a sponge and we want it to soak up as many positive experiences as possible because this time period (8 to 16 weeks) is call the Window of Socialization. That window actually begins to close down around 12 weeks of age and is shut by 16 weeks = 4 months old!! Teaching older puppies with less socialization opportunities becomes much more difficult.

How is that important, my puppy is just a baby, right? Well, yes and no. Mom Nature has created your little canine pal as a predator, a domesticated one, but a little carnivore that likes to hunt and eat meat! Yikes! No worries, that is why folks bring their puppies to ODH for puppy preschool and during the early phase of life we have the best chance to mold, shape and nurture our shy or feisty, little, shark tooth pups into well adjusted dogs.

Remember train your puppy right away, help your puppy become One Smart Cookie, then come to the Cookie Jar Puppy Party!

Thanks for being here!
My best,
Dru

 
 


Out of the DogHouse LLC website www.ohiodogtrainer.net
Any Questions? Call me, Dru Therrian 440.286.9070

Wednesday, July 15, 2015

Stop Counter Surfing


It seems that once you get a dog nothing is sacred! All your possessions becomes HIS or HERS! They certainly don't want to give them back or even share....it's MINE they say and if it is food, it is GONE.

Now, I know this isn't true for all dogs and I shouldn't make such generalizations but how come Counter Surfing is such a common problem? And don't think only big dogs do it because I have heard some very funny stories of very clever tiny dogs who scaled the kitchen cupboards to get what was forbidden!

Truly, it's the dog's nose that starts all the trouble. They just follow the scent and Voila; an instant reward is waiting...albeit.... out of their reach but triumphantly and with a bit if dexterity, they have wolfed down your dinner, a loaf of bread or whatever else might be set aside! I am not sure if I have heard about any dogs snatching fruit? Have you? Well anyways, how can we stop all this thievery when we can't catch 'em in the act?!

With this!


A Good Old Fashioned Victor Mouse Trap!








This unassuming, little contraption will be your best defense for stopping the Counter Surfer in your home.

No we will NOT be snapping dog noses or paws!  But we will carefully hide the mousetrap under something (such as in the photo) a ziplock bag or you could use a piece of copy paper and maybe the dish cloth could work?

The idea is for the dog to touch whatever is covering the trap while reaching for the "Bait" and that will spring the trap. Hopefully your dog will be startled enough to think stealing food off the counter is a BAD idea!!

So for a $2.49 you can get a 4 pack of these handy helpers and load up any spot that is under canine vigilance!

Oh and you know what else you can do? You can teach your dog to STAY on their dog bed so that he or she isn't even tempted to surf your counters in the first place.

Thanks for being here!
My best,
Dru

Out of the DogHouse LLC website www.ohiodogtrainer.net
Any Questions? Call me! Dru Therrian 440.286.9070